播音员:请大家注意一下。 ANNOUNCER [over PA]: May I have your attention please?
这是在宣布… This is to announce the arrival...
(继续朦胧地) [continues indistinctly]
玛雅·鲁道夫:无论是商务旅行， MAYA RUDOLPH: Whether traveling for business,
快乐,还是……快乐,还是…… pleasure, or...
绝对不是快乐。 definitely not pleasure.
哇，那家伙看起来很沮丧。 Wow, that guy looks bummed.
你很可能会发现自己身处美国的一个交通枢纽…… Anyway, chances are you'll find yourself in one of America's transit hubs...
推迟……累了……饿了。 delayed... tired... hungry.
我是说，你可以在报摊的寿司上掷骰子。 I mean, you could roll the dice on some newsstand sushi.
(放屁)厄。 [farting] Uck.
那不会有好结果的。 That's not gonna end well.
但是你起飞前的最后一餐可以为你的整个旅程定下基调。 But your last meal before takeoff can set the tone for your entire trip.
女士们先生们， So, ladies and gentlemen,
距离肯尼迪机场的交通管制塔只有一箭之遥， just a stone's throw from the traffic control towers of JFK,
ATL, DCA和LBG…ATL, DCA和LBG… ATL, DCA and LBG...
你会发现一些一流的景点 You'll find some first‐class spots
这事不该瞒着你。 这事不该瞒着你。 that should not be under your radar.
爱德华:这就是我说的。[唱首歌应承担]:烧烤。 [sing‐songing]: Barbecue.EDWARD: That's what I'm talking about.
玛雅:如果你愿意再深入一点， MAYA: If you're willing to go just a little further,
到达那里真的会有一半的乐趣。 getting there really will be half the fun.
这太好了。这太好了。 ‐ This is so good.
玛雅:哦，是的。值得再来一趟安检。 MAYA: Oh, yeah. That's worth a second trip through security.
如果你有一个以上的随身行李 ANNOUNCER [over PA]:If you have more than one carry‐on
还有一件私人物品…… and one personal item...
玛雅:不管你去美国的哪个地方， MAYA: No matter where you're heading in the US,
你很有可能要勇敢地面对世界上最繁忙的机场。 there's a good chance you'll have to brave the busiest airport in the world.
就像他们说的，人死后， It's like they say, when you die,
无论你是上天堂还是下地狱 whether you're going to Heaven or Hell,
你还是得转乘亚特兰大。 you still have to connect through Atlanta.
所以，下次你转到这里的时候， So, next time you're transferring here,
别因为中途停留而累坏了你。 don't let a little layover bum you out.
往下走五分钟就是Pit Boss BBQ。 Five minutes down the road is Pit Boss BBQ.
女士:为亚历克斯点餐。 WOMAN: Order for Alex.
女士2:不客气。 WOMAN 2: You're welcome.
玛雅:这个低调的位置很受航空业所有人的欢迎 with everyone in the airline industry,MAYA: This low‐key spot is popular
从机械师到飞行员， from mechanics to pilots,
他们都做了鸡胸肉的蜜蜂线， who all make a bee‐line for brisket,
还有甜的，辣的，烟熏的 and the sweet, spicy, smoky 'que
在轮班之间。Mn。 in between shifts.‐ Mm.
可怜。柠檬胡椒。 Have mercy. Lemon pepper.
因为你知道，很多人都不知道赌场老板。 'Cause you know, a lot of people don't know about Pit Boss.
他们听说了其他地方。 hey hear about the other places.
亚特兰大的秘密 确实，它是保存最好的博物馆之一 secrets of Atlanta And truly, it's one of the best‐kept
人们不知道，但他们正在学习。 that people don't know about, but they're learning.
玛雅:这是爱德华。或者用一些人的话说…… MAYA: Meet Edward. Or as some people call him...
- ATL伯尼叔叔。- ATL伯尼叔叔。 ‐ ATL Uncle Bernie.
你知道我在说什么吗?我每天都在这里为我的人民服务， You know what I'm saying? I'm here for my peoples all day every day,
星期天三次。星期天三次。 three times on Sunday.
给我点爱吧!给我点爱吧! Show me some love!
玛雅:在过去的20年里，他一直在航空公司做飞行员。 MAYA: He's been working as a skycap for the airlines for the past 20 years.
旅行者经常问他:“哪里有好吃的烤肉?” Travelers often ask him, "Where's the good barbecue?"
我很高兴你问了那个问题。 ‐ I'm glad you asked that question.
就在这条街上。你会闻到的。 Right up the street. You'll smell it.
回家。你绝对可以品尝到美味。 Down home. You definitely can taste the goodness.
我最喜欢的是鸡翅和牛腩三明治。 My favorite stuff is the wings and the brisket sandwich.
毫无疑问，这是炸弹的尊严。 Bar none, that is bomb‐diggity.
玛雅:嗯，看起来像点心。 MAYA: Mm. Lookin' like a snack.
Best Bet牛腩三明治 The Best Bet brisket sandwich
把烤焦的牛胸肉， takes that perfectly charred brisket,
在上面撒上一层波多贝罗蘑菇和洋葱 slathers it with Portobello mushrooms and sautéed onions
最后淋上融化的胡椒芝士。 and tops it off with melted pepper‐jack cheese.
太棒了，会让你唱歌的。 It's so good, it'll make you sing.
♬辣牛腩♬♬辣牛腩♬ ♪ Spicy brisket ♪
♬Yeah, Yeah, Yeah ♪ Yeah, yeah, yeah ♪
量好。我们准备好了一些鸡翅。 ‐ Okay. We got some wings ready.
在乔治亚州，人们对烧烤非常热衷。 Here in Georgia, they're very passionate about their barbecue.
所以在亚特兰大你可以看到很多不同的风格。 And so you get a lot of different styles here in Atlanta.
但你在乔治亚说"烧烤"的时候， But when you say "barbecue" here in Georgia,
它的意思是猪肉。 it means pork.
玛雅:韦德为那些纯粹的烧烤爱好者做了一些美味的排骨。 MAYA: Wade makes some mean pork ribs for the barbecue purists.
他会慢慢煮他想吃的东西，并称之为烧烤 But he'll slow cook whatever he wants and call it barbecue
只要他愿意。 if he damn well pleases.
看他工作。 Watch him work.
韦德:准备好了吗?玛雅:是的。 WADE: Ready? MAYA: Yeah.
韦德:好的。 WADE: Okay.
♬欢快、有节奏的音乐♬ ♪ upbeat, rhythmic music ♪
是的。嗯嗯。 Yes. Um‐hmm.
怎么啦？我烧烤。 What? I'm barbecuing.
我想要一个烧烤三明治。 I want a barbecue sandwich.
我们的排骨当然是出了名的。 We're known for our spare ribs, of course.
切胸, Sliced brisket,
还有烟熏鸡翅。 as well as, uh, smoked wings.
很多烧烤店都会用烟熏鸡翅 Lot of barbecue places, they'll smoke the wings
然后他们会油炸我们自己烤 and then they'll deep fry 'em. We grill ours.
这就是我们与众不同的地方。 That's what sets us apart from everybody else.
我妈妈教我怎么烧烤。如何熏肉。 My mom taught me how to barbecue. How to smoke meat.
里面有洋葱，大蒜， It's got some onions, some garlic,
调味盐，一点辣椒粉。 seasoned salt, a little cayenne pepper in it.
还有一些其他的配料让它与众不同。 Now there's a couple other ingredients that really make it unique.
我不会告诉你是什么。 I won't tell you what they are.
玛雅:如果我每次都有一美元 MAYA: If I had a dollar for every time
有人在这个节目里说… somebody said that on this show...
韦德:但是，嗯，但是我们直接在肉上擦干。 WADE: But, uh, but we dry rub right onto the meat.
给它点爱，在背面，在上面。 Give it some love, on the backside, top side here.
还有，多一点爱。 And, uh, a little more love.
(模糊聊天) [indistinct chatter]
太好了。‐嗯，嗯。 That's so good.‐ Mm. Mm.
♬由罗里·莫尔·奥多诺休和莎拉·乔伊斯演奏的《斯嘉丽》♬ ♪ "Scarlett" by Rory More O'Donoghue and Sarah Joyce playing ♪
玛雅:把自己裹在加重的毯子里 MAYA: Wrap yourself in a weighted blanket
热的熏肉， of hot, smoked meats,
为完美的飞机小憩做好准备。 and prepare for the perfect plane nap.
男[在广播中]:插入金属配件，系好安全带 MAN [over PA]: Fasten your seat belts by inserting the metal fitting
扣上…… into the buckle...
♬歌在继续♬ ♪ song continues ♪
飞行员:女士们，先生们，安全带的标志是亮着的…… [sign dings, yawning] PILOT [over PA]: Ladies and gentlemen, seat belt sign's on...
玛雅:你知道那种感觉 MAYA: You know that feeling
当你看着你的航班从准点变成延误…… when you watch your flight go from on time to delayed...
直接取消? to straight‐up cancelled?
你在开玩笑吗? Are you [bleep] kidding me?
好吧，不要惊慌。 Well, don't panic.
亚特兰大有很多值得探索的地标， Atlanta has plenty of landmarks to explore,
比如克莱蒙酒店和酒廊。 like the Clermont Hotel and Lounge.
(女人笑) [woman laughing]
在那里你可能会遇到一点麻烦。 Where you can get into a little trouble.
罗伯特:好吧，我们换一下。(Cierra笑) ROBERT: All right, let's switch. [Cierra laughing]
然后我们换一下。‐好吧，再咬一口。 And then we'll switch.‐ Okay, one more bite.
‐好的。 ‐ All right.
罗伯特:我们的全部关系都建立在旅行上， ROBERT: We based our whole relationship on travel,
自从我们在一起之后 and ever since we've been together,
我们的行程基本上都是围绕食物安排的。 we schedule trips basically around food.
谢了。 CIERRA: Thank you.
玛雅:这对当地夫妇让火焰熊熊燃烧 MAYA: This local couple keeps the flame alive
在世界各地寻找美味佳肴。 by chasing down fabulous meals all around the globe.
但即使是在主场， But even when they're on home turf,
在克莱蒙特酒店住一晚是个不错的小去处。 a night at the Clermont makes a nice little getaway.
我家后院有小露，简直是食物的金矿 CIERRA: Having Tiny Lou's in our backyard is just a gold mine for food
体验和服务。 and experience and service.
然后楼下还有庆功宴。 And then there's the after party downstairs.
(笑) [laughs]
玛雅:这些年来这栋建筑经历了很多活动。 MAYA: This building has seen a lot of action over the years.
在地下室， On the basement level,
你会发现标志性的潜水酒吧和脱衣舞俱乐部，克莱蒙特酒廊， you'll find the iconic dive bar and strip club, the Clermont Lounge,
自1965年以来一直很强劲。 which has been going strong since 1965.
在你睡楼上酒店之前， And before you crash out at the hotel upstairs,
顺便去小露家 stop in at Tiny Lou's,
行政总厨杰布正在做美味的法国菜 where executive chef Jeb is making amazing French food.
[叹气]就像这个24个月的伯爵可丽饼。 [sighs]Like this 24‐month Comte crepe.
上面撒上小胡萝卜和甜菜， Topped with baby carrots and beets,
热高粱和开心果油。 hot sorghum and pistachio oil.
还有他在牛排薯条上的表演。 And his play on steak frites.
杰布:每个人都喜欢牛排薯条。 JEB: Everyone can relate to steak frites.
这是一道经典的法国小酒馆菜。 It's a classic French bistro dish.
我们用真空烹调4个小时 We actually cook these sous vide for four hours
加入棕色黄油和大蒜。 in brown butter and garlic.
玛雅:把它放在烤架上烤焦。 MAYA: Throw it on the grill for a nice char.
再刷一遍黄油， Brush that baby with butter again,
最后撒上克莱蒙酱。 and top it off with Sauce Clermont.
杰布:酱汁和白黄油很像。 JEB: The sauce is very similar to beurre blanc.
我们也有一个小惊喜。 We also have a little surprise.
实际上，我们还会在里面加入一点自制的鹅肝酱。 We actually add a little bit of our house‐cured foie gras in there, as well.
♬《魔幻时刻》由眼镜蛇人演奏♬ ♪ "Magic Hour" by Cobra Man playing ♪
罗伯特:牛排薯条是很经典的。 ROBERT: Steak frites is a, it's a classic.
配牛排薯条，对吧?-你永远不会出错-是的，你不会出错。 with steak frites, right? ‐ You can never go wrong ‐ Yeah, you can't go wrong with it.
Mn。 ‐ Mm.
‐这些薯条调味得很好。 ‐ These fries are seasoned wonderfully.
[笑]—我没说你可以—— [laughs]‐ I didn't say you can‐‐
我在分享吗? Am I sharing?
(笑)罗伯特:现在你是。 [laughs] ROBERT: Now you are.
罗伯特，你不能忘记甜点。 ‐ Robert, you cannot forget the desserts.
玛雅:如果你留点吃甜食的空间， MAYA: If you saved room for sweets,
你做到了，不是吗? and you did, didn't you?
克劳迪娅是你的女朋友劳迪娅是你的女朋友。 Claudia is your girl.
这个富有的美人被称为“皇家”。 This rich beauty is called "The Royale."
巧克力慕斯加了咖啡和豆蔻奶油， Chocolate mousse spiked with coffee and cardamom cremu,
奶油布丁，在法语里是上等的意思 creamy pudding,which is French for fine‐ass
撒上可可粉，再撒上一层黄金。 sprinkled with cocoa streusel and dusted with gold.
她还为克莱蒙酒廊的传奇人物准备了甜点。 She also has a dessert dedicated to a Clermont Lounge legend.
克劳迪娅:金发女郎是楼下的舞者， CLAUDIA: Blondie is a dancer downstairs,
所以我们用她的名字给甜点命名。 so we named the dessert after her.
《金发女郎颂》的名字是白巧克力， The "Ode to Blondie" has white chocolate namelaka,
辣山核桃和奶油芝士冰淇淋。 spicy pecans, and cream cheese ice cream.
还有PBR焦糖。 And it has PBR caramel.
她用胸部碾压PBR， She crushes PBR with her chest,
所以我们把它加进去了。(笑) so we added that in there. [laughs]
♬德彪西演奏的《月光女郎》♬ ♪ "Clair de Lune" by Debussy playing ♪
Mn。 ‐ Mm.
谁会想到PBR会这么好吃? Who would think PBR could taste so yummy?
(笑) (笑) [laughs]
玛雅:钱德拉一直在楼下休息室和金发女郎一起工作 MAYA: Chandra has been working down in the lounge with Blondie
在过去的30年里。 for the past 30 years.
她只花了一分钟来享受 And she's taking just a minute to indulge
在她去酒吧值班之前。 before her shift behind the bar.
-哦，天哪。 ‐ Oh, my.
这是非常颓废的。 That is very decadent.
克莱蒙酒廊是个很独特的地方。 Well, Clermont Lounge is a very unique place.
非常独特。这是一个成人娱乐场所。 Very unique. It is an adult entertainment place.
我们都有类型女性。 We have all type females.
你知道，不管他们是20多岁还是70多岁。 You know, whether they're, you know, in their 20s or 70s.
它是女性经营的，女性拥有的。 It's female‐ran, female owned.
金发女郎，她在入会周很受大学生欢迎。 Blondie, she was popular with the college kids during pledge week.
有一天我拿起一个PBR罐放在她的胸间， One day just picked up a PBR can and put it between her breasts,
粉碎了它，这就是她历史的开始。 and crushed it, and that was the beginning of her history.
(笑) (笑) [laughs]
我真的很喜欢这个。 I really like this.
我要把它带走。(笑) I'm taking that to go. [laughs]
玛雅:学钱德拉，也带一份甜点带走。 MAYA: Be like Chandra, and take a dessert to go, too.
除非你喜欢飞机上的干饼干。 Unless you like those dry‐ass biscuits they serve you in‐flight.
玛雅:过去的48小时在迈阿密是一片模糊。 MAYA: The past 48 hours in Miami have been a blur.
去拜访爷爷，玩多米诺骨牌把他彻底击垮。 Visiting Grandpa, and completely destroying him at dominoes.
对不起,爷爷。 Sorry, Gramps.
花一早上的时间让鹦鹉说脏话。 Spending a morning trying to get parrots to say swear words.
来吧，说出来。“Asshat。” Come on, say it. "Asshat."
那首比特犬的歌听了大概300遍。 Listening to that Pit Bull song about 300 times.
“Uno, do, res, quatro……” " Uno, dos, tres, quatro... "
太累了。 It's been exhausting.
幸运的是，你很聪明，订了晚一点的航班， Luckily, you're smart enough to have booked a late flight,
所以你可以挤出时间吃一顿史诗般的早午餐，穿过安检线， so you can squeeze in an epic brunch and cruise through the security line,
嗡嗡作响，不受打扰。 buzzed and unbothered.
雅洛比:早午餐是炸弹，而且， JAROBI: Brunch food is the bomb, and also,
白天喝酒真是太棒了。 day drinking is amazing.
(Jarobi笑)没有。不。 [Jarobi laughing]‐ No. No.
[笑] [laughing]
就是让昨晚继续下去‐早午餐的目的 就是让昨晚继续下去‐早午餐的目的 is to keep last night going.‐ The purpose of brunch
你看，我昨晚没出去。你看，我昨晚没出去。 ‐ See, I don't go out last night.
这是不一样的——不得不起床去吃早午餐， that's something different,‐ Having to wake up and go to brunch,
而不是跌跌撞撞。啊。 han being like, stumbling. Ugh.
“让我去吃早午餐吧。”(都笑了) "Let me go to brunch." [both laughing]
玛雅:一个叫做探索的部落的创始成员， MAYA: A founding member of A Tribe Called Quest,
最终，雅洛比和妻子丹妮(Dani)将林登大道交易到了迈阿密。 Jarobi eventually traded Linden Boulevard for Miami with his wife, Dani.
如今，他是一名受过传统训练的厨师。 Today, he's a classically trained chef.
但雅洛比一开始是部落的非官方厨师。 But Jarobi started out as Tribe's unofficial cook.
你知道我喜欢什么。嗯，你知道我的。我是简单的。 You know what I like.‐ Well, you know me. I'm simple.
当我们在洛杉矶机场时，我最喜欢去…… When we're in LA and we're by the airport, my favorite go‐to...
‐In 'N ' Out。你已经知道了。 ‐ In 'N Out. ‐ You already know.
不过,无处不在。‐我们有我们最喜欢的 everywhere, though.‐ We have our favorites
是的。纽约，是… ‐ Yeah. New York, it's, uh,
白色城堡。中国美食和白色城堡。‐中国菜，白色城堡。 White Castle. Chinese food and White Castle.‐ Chinese food, White Castle.
我的意思是，这是我们长大的东西。是的。 ‐ I mean, it's what we grew up on. ‐ Yes.
都是古巴菜。‐人们认为迈阿密 is just all Cuban food.‐ People think Miami
别误会我的意思，我是说… Well, and don't get me wrong, I mean...
雅洛比:这是古巴最好的食物。 JAROBI: It's the best Cuban food.
我只是在谈论一个技能水平与所有这些炸弹屁股厨师在这里。 I'm just talking about on a skill level with all these bomb‐ass chefs out here.
我不知道。 I had no idea.
玛雅:迈阿密是美国最大的美食城市之一。 MAYA: Miami is one of the greatest food cities in the country.
但如果你在去飞机的路上只有一站的时间， But if you only have time for one stop on your way to the plane,
餐厅有点像旺卡工厂的神奇口香糖。 Eating House is kind of like the magic gum from the Wonka factory.
这个城市所有的味道 All of the flavors of the city
一顿严肃的早餐。 jammed into one serious breakfast.
‐我们已经被称为， ‐ We've kind of become known as like,
迈阿密一家很酷的早午餐餐厅。 a really kind of cool brunch spot here in Miami.
有时候，你会想，“我需要吃点东西。” You know, sometimes, you think, "I need a quick bite."
比如，你不必吃快餐。 Like, you don't have to have fast food.
你可以很快就吃到美味的食物。 Like, you can have really good food cooked quickly.
你知道吗，想到有人会飞回家真是太棒了 You know, that's so rad to think that someone's gonna, like, fly home
他们最后吃的东西就是我们的食物。 and the last thing they had was our food.
♬欢快的音乐响起 ♪ upbeat music playing ♪
我们有两道菜很有迈阿密风味。这是其中之一。 We have two very Miami dishes. This is one of them.
这是哥伦比亚早餐的一种主食，叫做calentado， It's a take off a Columbian breakfast staple called calentado,
意思就是“再加热”。 which really means "reheated."
从大蕉开始。 So start off with the plantains.
这些是成熟的大蕉。我们称它们为马杜罗。 These are ripe plantains. We call them maduros.
比如，如果它们有点粘在你的牙齿上， Like, if they're, like, sticking in your teeth a little bit,
这是个好兆头。给我。 like, that's a good sign. For me.
Chimichurri。那是日历。 Chimichurri. That is a calentado.
丹妮:太好吃了。Mn! DANI: It's so good.‐ Mm!
这很好。这就像你奶奶会做的东西。 And this is good. This is like something that your grandma would make.
这真的很好。 This is really good.
-那很好。那是性感的。 ‐ That's good. That's sexy.
‐很性感?量嗯嗯。 ‐ It's sexy? ‐ Mm‐hmm.
我来告诉你什么是性感。好。 JAROBI: I'll tell you what's sexy.
走进厨房，一条面包正在烤着。 Walking into a kitchen, and a loaf of bread is baking.
玛雅:哦，你好，吐司。 MAYA: Oh, hello, toast.
对于烤蛋卷， For carbonara eggs benedict,
乔治换掉了荷兰酱 Giorgio swaps out hollandaise sauce
为了制作黑松露油的奶油酱， for a creamy sauce kicked up with black truffle oil,
然后用陈年的格兰帕达诺让它下雨。 and then makes it rain with aged grana padano.
[玛雅人模仿喇叭] [Maya imitates air horn]
让它下雨。 Make it rain.
乔治:这是一种非常有趣的鸡蛋本尼迪克特。 GIORGIO: It's a really interesting version of eggs benedict.
有点像我们晚上做的意大利面。 Kind of a riff on a pasta that we do at night.
服务员:所以，我们有了烤蛋酱。 SERVER: So, we have the carbonara eggs benedict.
雅洛比:驴，驴，驴，驴。(丹尼笑) JAROBI: Ass, ass, ass, ass. [Dani laughing]
(都笑了) [both laughing]
雅洛比:看起来很好吃。 JAROBI: Looks delicious.
但是，有点扭曲。很像意大利面。 But, like, with a twist.‐ It's very pasta‐y.
玛雅:但是这里最受欢迎的菜…… MAYA: But the most popular plate here...
…会让你回想起小时候的那些周六早晨。 ...is a throwback to those Saturday mornings when you were a kid.
乔治:这是我们的，嗯，煎饼面糊。 GIORGIO: So this is our, um, pancake batter.
我想说可能是面糊里的大部分成分 I would say probably a big majority of what's in this batter
是磨碎的谷物。我是吃着嘎嘣脆船长长大的。 is milled up cereal. I grew up eating Captain Crunch.
这是我最喜欢的麦片。 It's my absolute favorite cereal in the world.
煎饼和麦片。麦片和牛奶。 Pancakes and cereal. Cereal and milk.
所以我们制作了牛奶糖浆。 So we make milk syrup.
玛雅:倒上一大杯，最后再洒上一点船长酒 MAYA: A generous pour and a final sprinkling of Captain
保证每一口甜糯的食物都有嘎吱嘎吱的口感。 guarantees each sweet, doughy bite comes with a crunch.
(处理) [crunching]
这太神奇了。 ‐ It's amazing.
在这里。 Here.
雅洛比:真的很好吃。(与)……真的很好…真的很好… JAROBI: It's really good. [echoing] ...really good... really good...
是的。(与)……是的，是的，是的，是的…… Yes. [echoing] ...yes, yes, yes, yes...
♬舞蹈音乐演奏♬ ♪ dance music playing ♪
他们用麦片做煎饼…… They use the cereal to make the pancakes...
(呼应):煎饼，煎饼，煎饼…… [echoing]: pancakes, pancakes, pancakes...
(笑)他们用麦片做煎饼…… [laughing] They use the cereal to make the pancakes...
[这]:……煎饼，煎饼，煎饼，煎饼，煎饼…… [echoing]: ...pancakes, pancakes, pancakes, pancakes, pancakes...
太神奇了。 That was amazing.
[发出爆炸声] [makes exploding noise]
我要再咬一口，因为太好吃了。 I need another bite of this 'cause this is so good.
[笑] [laughing]
食物会出汗?你知道当你得到 the food sweats?‐ You know when you get
(都笑了) [both laughing]
我，我觉得我的整个脸，都在变红，出汗。 I, I feel like my whole face is, is just getting red and sweaty.
我现在吃东西都出汗了。 I'm getting the food sweats now.
的欢呼声。[笑]不，我不是在为这个欢呼。 ‐ Cheers. [laughs] ‐ No, I'm not cheers‐ing that.
♬欢快的音乐响起 ♪ upbeat music playing ♪
(签署丁氏) [sign dings]
广播员:谢谢你乘坐我们的飞机，欢迎来到华盛顿特区。 ANNOUNCER [over PA]: Thank you for flying with us, and welcome to DC.
玛雅:在去华盛顿的短途旅行中， MAYA: On a quick trip to DC,
你是否一直在锻炼臀大肌 whether you're been exercising your glutes
在这个半球最长的自动扶梯上， on the longest escalators in the hemisphere,
或者行使你的第一修正案权利 or exercising your first amendment rights,
最终，你会想要休息一下。 eventually, you're gonna want a break.
贾达:我当记者已经很久了。 JADA: I've been a journalist for a really long time.
政治写作最棒的部分是…… And the best part of political writing is...
在美国的某个地方和一群人交谈 being somewhere in America and talking to a bunch of people
他们关心的事情， about things that they care about,
然后，你知道，找个地方吃点好吃的。 and then, you know, getting some good food somewhere.
哇。看那个。 Wow. Look at that.
深挖那个东西。(笑) Dig into that thing. [laughs]
玛雅:在去华盛顿报道国家政治之前， MAYA: Before moving to DC to cover national politics,
贾达花了一年时间环游世界 Jada spent a year traipsing the globe
为《纽约时报》写旅游文章 writing travel articles for The New York Times
至少有五个朋友转发给你的。 that at least five of your friends forwarded to you.
她经常出差 She's on the road a lot,
而且总是留意着新的吃饭地点。 and always has an eye out for new places to eat.
贾达:基本上，无论我降落在哪里， JADA: Basically, everywhere I land,
我在谷歌地图上输入每一条推荐信息。 I punch in every recommendation on a Google map.
你是想让我说每当我降落在机场， Did you want me to say that whenever I land at an airport,
我打开Eater? I open up Eater?
玛雅:嗯，除非你是认真的。 MAYA: Well, only if you really mean it.
‐[笑]我的意思是，这是真的。 ‐ [laughs] I mean, it's true.
玛雅:好的，杰达。这就是新闻工作者的正直。 MAYA: Okay, Jada. That's some journalistic integrity right there.
正如贾达告诉你的，华盛顿有一些非常好的特尼食物。 As Jada can tell you, DC has some really good Trini food.
在凯恩，你得从翅膀开始。 And at Cane, you gotta start with the wings.
-哦，天哪。那真是太好了。 ‐ Oh, my. That's really good.
这是美味的。 That's delicious.
彼得:这是我们的鸡翅。 PETER: These are, uh, our jerk wings.
辣鸡翅，传统上，也是牙买加产的。 Jerk wings are, uh, traditionally, uh, Jamaican, as well.
香料来自他们的原住民， The spices came from their aboriginal people,
但是很多逃跑的奴隶都用它来保存肉类。 but a lot of escaped slaves used to use it to preserve meats.
如果你在逃亡，这是最完美的食物。 You know, if you're on the run, it's like the perfect food.
他们被烟熏了三个小时， They're, uh, smoked for three hours,
腌制24小时后， after a 24‐hour marinade,
最后我们用熏黄油来做鸡翅。 we finish our wings with our smoked butter.
结果真的很好吃。 Turns out to be really delicious.
这是我们的鸡翅。 These are our jerk wings.
玛雅:彼得多年来一直在完善24小时腌料 MAYA: Peter had been perfecting that 24‐hour marinade for years
然后和他的妹妹一起开了凯恩。 before teaming up with his sister to open Cane.
在H街， And here on H Street,
彼得和珍宁拿出一份菜单 Peter and Jeanine offer up a menu
装满了他们在特立尼达和多巴哥长大的食物。 full of the foods they grew up eating in Trinidad and Tobago.
彼得:这些是我们自己腌制的腌菜。 PETER: These are our pickled vegetables that we pickle in‐house.
一些辣椒……这是我们的鲷鱼。 Some hot peppers... This is our snapper escovitch.
‐经常有人来跟我们说， ‐ We often have people come and say,
他们从来没有，从来没有过这样的经历， they've never, they've never had anything like this,
他们说每次来华盛顿 and they say every time they come to DC,
这将是他们必须要做的一站。 this is gonna be a stop that they have to make.
甘蔗酸 The Cane Sour
是一种新的鸡尾酒。 is a new cocktail.
这款酒主要以安戈斯图拉的苦味为主。 This drink has really centered around Angostura bitters.
所以，这是朗姆酒航班的新成员 So, that's a new addition to the rum flights
很多人，嗯，喜欢来和朋友一起尝试。 which a lot of folks, uh, like to come and try with friends.
玛雅:而不是等着送饮料的车过来 MAYA: Instead of waiting for the drink cart to foist over
一小瓶酒飘到空中， one tiny bottle of booze up in the air,
起飞前喝点朗姆酒， dip into a flight of rum before you fly,
从西印度群岛取样 and sample these goods from the West Indies.
甘蔗这个名字是对他们酿造的朗姆酒的致敬 The name Cane is a nod to all this rum they're pouring up
在吧台后面。 behind the bar.
还有甘蔗工业的历史。 And to the history of the sugar cane industry.
这个独特的实体——特立尼达食物变成了 this unique entity ‐ Trinidadian food became
因为把特立尼达作为家园的独特的民族组合。 because of the unique combination of people that made Trinidad their home.
非洲奴隶在土地上劳作， The African slaves worked the land,
来自印度的契约劳工留在那里。 the indentured laborers from India stayed there.
他们带来了自己的烹饪技术和风味。 They brought their cooking techniques, their flavors.
珍宁:印度菜有一种风格 JEANINE: There is sort of a style of Indian food
特立尼达和加勒比的独特之处 that's uniquely Trinidadian and Caribbean,
香料的混合也很独特。 and the spice blend is just really unique.
玛雅:印度的影响和那些分层口味 MAYA: The Indian influence and those layered flavors
都在凯恩的午餐盒里。 are featured in Cane's tiffin lunch box.
这些罐头仍然是一种流行的携带午餐的方式 These tins are still a popular way to carry lunch
在今天的印度和西印度群岛 in India and the West Indies today.
彼得:好了，伙计们。所以我们要做我们的午餐。 PETER: All right, guys. So we're gonna build our tiffin.
玛雅:在这个锡塔里， MAYA: In this tower of tin,
炸成片状的帕拉塔 flaky, fried paratha
是一堆咖喱的基础层。 is the base layer for a stack of curries.
好吧。在二楼， Okay. On the second floor,
我们有鸡肉。 we've got chicken.
在楼上，茄子和番茄相间的灯圈， Upstairs, eggplant and tomato chokas,
上面是慢煮的嫩牛肉。 and up top, slow cooked tender beef.
彼得:你知道，你得和面包一起进去。 PETER: You know, you need to get in with the bread.
每个人都有自己的技巧。 Everybody has their own technique.
不管你咬的是什么，你都能咬出完美的一口。 You make the perfect bite whatever your perfect bite is.
(计时器响) [timer dings]
Mn。 ‐ Mm.
玛雅:用朗姆酒冲下所有的香料， MAYA: Wash down all that spice with a lot of rum,
起飞的时候你会感觉很好。 and you'll be feeling good by takeoff time.
玛雅:洛杉矶的天气很好， MAYA: Los Angeles is known for perfect weather,
了还是当地人, laid‐back locals,
也是这个国家最混乱的机场之一。 and one of the most chaotic airports in the country.
(汽车喇叭声) [horns honking]
男:来吧! MAN: Come on!
玛雅:那就停下来。 MAYA: So stop.
把车调头， Turn the car around,
改道去长滩 and reroute to Long Beach.
距离洛杉矶仅半小时车程， Just half an hour south of LA,
你会找到一个不会让你抓狂的机场， you'll find an airport that won't make you lose your shit,
以及柬埔寨境外最令人难忘的高棉美食。 and some of the most memorable Khmer food outside of Cambodia.
哦，脆炸点心?是的,请! Ooh, crispy fried treats? Yes, please!
这些咖啡至少要松软十倍 These cha quai are at least ten times fluffier
比那些飞机枕头还好。 than those airplane pillows.
在柬埔寨，人们早上起得很早 VAN: In Cambodia, they're up really early in the morning
还有一些中国甜甜圈。我们称之为cha quai。 with some Chinese donuts. We call it cha quai.
他们用热汤来暖肚子。 They warm their bellies up with, you know, hot soup.
如果东西没坏，为什么要换呢? You know, why change something if it's not broken, right?
金边面馆的老板玛雅:范是现在的厨师和合伙人 of Phnom Penh Noodle Shack.MAYA: Van is the current chef and co‐owner
这家家族企业一直在供应爆炒辣酱， A family business that has been serving stir fried me‐ka‐tang,
猪肉虾仁学生面 student noodles with pork and shrimp,
还有他们家30年来的招牌汤，凯茶。 and their house special soup, kuy teav, the past 30 years.
在美国的柬埔寨人。‐长滩是最大的 Cambodian population in the US. ‐ Long Beach has, like, the biggest
70年代，柬埔寨经历了历史上的悲惨时刻， In the '70s, Cambodia went through a tragic moment in history,
被称为柬埔寨种族灭绝，数百万柬埔寨人死亡， called the Cambodian genocide, where, like, millions of Cambodians died,
因为他们国家发生了战争。 because of a war within their country.
你知道，我们不得不逃跑。 You know, we had to flee.
我是个难民。 I was a refugee.
我出生在难民营。 I was born in a refugee camp.
最后，我的叔叔阿姨们， Eventually, my aunts and uncles,
他们来到这里，赞助了我们。 they came out here and then they sponsored us.
我们开始了新的生活。 We started a new life.
除了柬埔寨面条，我们什么都不知道。 We didn't know anything else but Cambodian noodles.
这是我们的专长，人们也因此知道我们。 It's our specialty, and people know us for this.
玛雅:这里不会是金边面馆 MAYA: This wouldn't be Phnom Penh Noodle Shack
没有面条。 without the noodles.
像这样的汤是一种与家的强烈联系。 Soups like this kuy teav are a powerful connection to home.
尤其是当你被迫离开家的时候。 Especially if home is a place you've been forced to leave behind.
但是范和他的手下 But Van and his crew
为新一代高棉人保留文化。 keep the culture alive for a new generation of Khmer.
SORANY:很期待这道汤。 SORANY: So excited for this soup.
就我个人而言，我觉得我走进了某人的家 Speaking for myself, but I feel like I'm coming into, like, someone's house
每次我在这里吃饭，所以… every time I eat here, so...
两人:多次。[笑] BOTH: Multiple times. [laughing]
洛杉矶国际机场是一个巨大的机场，对吧? ‐ LAX is a monster of an airport, right?
来这里，拿你的面条， So, just coming here, getting your noodles,
喝足了酒，然后在去机场的路上…… getting your fix in, and just being on your way to the airport is...
没有什么比这更好的了。 there's nothing better than that.
玛雅:索拉尼出生在长滩， MAYA: Sorany was born in Long Beach,
还有那种把车拉到桌子前的感觉 and that feeling of pulling up to the table
和20个最喜欢的叔叔阿姨 with 20 favorite aunties and uncles
让她在出城的路上回来吃面条。 keeps her coming back for noodles anytime she's on her way out of town.
索兰尼:我出生在长滩， SORANY: I was born in Long Beach,
红色高棉，但我的父母逃离了 Kmae Kra - haam， Khmer Rouge, but my parents escaped Kmae Kra‐haam,
来到了美国 and came to the States.
所有的障碍， All the obstacles,
你知道，一个移民社区必须克服， you know, an immigrant community has to overcome,
而且，我刚刚经历了一件非常紧张和创伤的事情 and plus, coming from like a very stressful and traumatic event
就像种族灭绝一样，就像穿过难民营一样， as, as genocide, and like, going through a refugee camp,
来美国，诸如此类的事情 and coming to America and all that stuff,
社区意识， the sense of community,
有像金边面馆这样的地方， and having a place like Phnom Penh Noodle Shack to come to is,
真的很酷。 is really cool.
哦，这些很热。是的! Ooh, these are hot. Yes!
男:直截了当。[Sorany笑) MAN: Straight out. [Sorany laughs]
Mn。 ‐ Mm.
哦，太好吃了。 男:嗯嗯。 MAN: Mm‐hmm.Oh, it's so good.
索兰尼:新鲜的味道要好得多。 SORANY: That is so much better when it's, like, fresh.
-哦，天哪。 ‐ Oh, man.
索兰尼:我认为，总的来说， SORANY: I think across the board,
最著名的安慰食物之一 one of the most well‐known comfort foods
对很多高棉人来说，这就是婴儿。 for a lot of Khmer, is bobor.
人们早餐、午餐和晚餐都吃它。主要是早餐。 People eat it for breakfast, lunch, dinner. Mainly for breakfast.
玛雅:Bobor是一种柬埔寨米粥。 MAYA: Bobor is a Cambodian rice porridge.
这是舒缓和充实的一半。 That's equal parts soothing and filling.
这个碗里有肉、胃、肝和猪血 This bowl has an array of meat, stomach, liver, and pork blood
在柠檬草浸泡的肉汤里， in a lemon grass‐infused broth,
加上大蒜，香菜，大葱和辣椒。 plus garlic, cilantro, scallions, and chilies.
男:猪血的船， MAN: The bobor with pork blood,
这是最好的一道菜，你可以直接蘸上咖啡。 this is like the best dish that you can go ahead and dip the cha quai in.
就像他们的方式一样 Just the way that the cha quai absorbs that.
它就是，它就是金色的。 And it's just, it's golden right there.
现在全身都在滴水。 Dripping all over right now.
SORANY:这是真正的美食。(笑) SORANY: That's some real eating right there. [laughs]
玛雅:一碗好东西 MAYA: A bowl of the good stuff
在你花额外的钱挤进靠过道的座位之前， before you cram yourself into that aisle seat you paid extra for,
只为了让你前面的女士斜靠在你腿上， only to have the lady in front of you recline into your lap,
是的。是啊，绝对值得绕道而行。 yeah. Yeah, it's definitely worth the detour.
‐♬哦，是的 ‐ ♪ Oh, yeah ♪
玛雅:在任何机场最安全的赌注， MAYA: The safest bet in any airport,
除了禁食，还有披萨。 besides fasting, is pizza.
他们说即使很糟糕，也还是很不错的。 They say even when it's bad, it's still pretty good.
但你大老远来纽约不是为了安定下来。 But you didn't come all the way to New York to settle.
这个机组人员当然没有。 This flight crew sure didn't.
如果有人知道当地的合法酒吧， And if there's anyone who knows about the legit local spots,
这是专业的。 it's the pros.
拉米兹:怎么了，伙计们?多米尼克:怎么了? RAMIZ: What's up, guys? DOMINIQUE: What's up?
米兹:嘿，怎么了，伙计?好吧。多米尼克:怎么了? RAMIZ: Yo, w hat's up, man? All right. DOMINIQUE: What's up?
您要点什么?‐让我拿一个，呃， ‐ What can I get you? ‐ Let me get a, uh,
香蒜沙司甜辣味香肠， pesto sweet sauce pepperoni,
还有香蒜酱甜酱花椰菜。 and a pesto sweet sauce broccoli.
‐是的，先生。 ‐ Yes, sir.
玛雅:在邱园的丹尼披萨店 MAYA: Dani's House of Pizza in Kew Gardens
这里的特色菜和你的标准菜品相差很远。 has a house special that's miles apart from your standard slice.
神奇之处在于罗勒注入的油 The magic is in the basil‐infused oil
渗入地壳。 that seeps into the crust.
给它一种华丽的草本脆皮。 Giving it a magnificent, herbaceous crisp.
拉米兹:哦，太漂亮了。 RAMIZ: Oh, that's beautiful.
几乎和送披萨的一样漂亮。 Almost as beautiful as the pizza man.
哈哈。 Ha.
有时候我们把披萨放进烤箱烤得不够快，你知道吗? We can't put the pizza in the oven fast enough sometimes, you know?
这里各种各样的人都来买披萨，你知道吗? All types of people over here that come to get pizza, you know?
玛雅: 为了这香蒜酱的美味， For this pesto‐y goodness, MAYA:
人们从附近街区赶来， people come from around the block,
来自世界各地。 and from all over the world.
这些人两样都做了。 These guys kind of did both.
我总是点他们的香蒜沙司。 WOMAN: I always order their pesto.
这是我的首选。 This is my go‐to.
这太好了。 ‐ This is so good.
他们必须先试试普通的，但我认为对于第一次来的人来说， they have to try the regular first,‐ But I think for a first‐time person,
所以他们知道甜酱是什么。 so they understand what the sweet sauce is.
男:然后他们可以继续做香蒜沙司。 MAN: Then they can progress to the pesto,‐ For sure.
加了甜酱。 with the sweet sauce.
多米尼克:这肯定是有程度的。 DOMINIQUE: There's levels to this, for sure.
多姆，你有，呃，另一边。 MAN: Dom, you got some, uh, other side.
男:好吧。 我把它留到以后再说。 ‐ I was saving it for later.MAN: Okay.
[笑] [laughing]
玛雅:多姆和他的其他机组成员， MAYA: Dom, and rest of his flight crew mates,
住在他们在附近共用的临时住所， stay at this crash pad they share around the way in the neighborhood,
也被称为“船员花园”。 also known as "Crew Gardens."
在一周内，我可能会飞20条腿。 ‐ In one week, I might fly 20 legs.
-哦，是的，我不能那样做。是的。 ‐ Oh, yeah, I can't do that. ‐ Yeah.
-每天四条腿， ‐ Which is four legs every single day,
吃杏仁和奶酪之类的东西， eating almonds and cheeses and what not,
所以在我看来这是基尤最好的食物。 so this is the best food in Kew in my opinion.
达尼餐厅最大的特点，就是口感稳定。这就像, And the biggest thing about Dani's, the consistency. It's like,
我知道十次中有十次，我的香蒜沙司配甜酱和意大利辣香肠 I know 10 out of 10 times, my pesto with sweet sauce and pepperoni
会很好吃的。 is going to be delicious.
它总是很美味的。‐毫无疑问。 It's always gonna be delicious.‐ No doubt.
玛雅:当你精疲力尽的时候， MAYA: When you're running on fumes,
紧张的乘客， nerves fried from pushy passengers,
网红溜进商务舱，婴儿尖叫， influencers sneaking into business class, screaming babies,
告诉那个喝了五杯杰克可乐就流口水的家伙 and telling that guy drooling on himself after five Jack and Cokes
请把他的座位往后拉， to please put his seat back all the way up,
因为我们终于要着陆了… because we are finally landing...
(签署丁氏) [sign dings]
丹妮的披萨之家是消除压力的地方。 Dani's House of Pizza is the spot to melt the stress away.
我喜欢这个披萨。 DOMINIQUE: I love this pizza.
女人:是的!看他走的样子。 WOMAN: Yes! Look at him go.
(所有的笑) [all laughing]
多米尼克:刷新。[笑] DOMINIQUE: Refreshed. [laughing]
玛雅:飞行可不是件轻松的事。 MAYA: Flying is no picnic.
但确实可以， But it sure as hell can be,
用一些精明的招数 with a few savvy moves to snag
这个国家最好吃的食物， some of the best freaking food this country has to offer,
就在候机楼外面。 just outside the terminal.
所以放下悲伤和收缩包装， So drop the sad and the shrink‐wrapped,
然后侧身去吃烟熏肉。 and go sidle up to some smoky meats.
韦德:给它点爱吧。多一点爱。 WADE: Give it some love. A little more love.
玛雅:把自己从旅行噩梦中转移开来 MAYA: Distract yourself from travel nightmares
去品尝当地最受欢迎的美食。 by hitting up a local favorite.
-哦，天哪。 ‐ Oh, my.
玛雅:为一碗舒适的食物改变你的出租车路线。 MAYA: Reroute your cab for a bowl of comfort.
或者对待你内心的孩子。 Or treat your inner child.
[发出爆炸声][大笑] [makes exploding noise] [laughing]
不管你今晚是否狂欢， Whether you make a big night of it,
或者只是简单地抓一片， or just grab a simple slice,
理想的飞行方式是满意的。 the ideal way to fly is satisfied.
钱德拉:我喜欢巧克力慕斯。任何巧克力。 CHANDRA: I love chocolate mousse. Anything chocolate.
任何东西。冰淇淋、蛋糕、饼干。 Anything. Ice cream, cake, cookies.
实际上,饼干。 Cookies, actually.
我开玩笑说， I make the joke that, you know,
有些人说他们的生父是邮递员。 some people say that their real father was the mailman.
我说我的生父是饼干怪兽。 I say my real father was Cookie Monster.
我可以在不到一个小时的时间里吃掉一打饼干， I can eat a baker's dozen of cookies in less than an hour,
不要感到羞耻。“嘿… and like, feel no shame. Like, "Hey...
(笑)真不错。” [laughing] Those good."
[笑] [laughing]